Your home may have any combination of gas heating, hot water and cooking. Switch these three functions from gas to electricity and you can say goodbye to gas bills forever. Remember also that it is always cheaper to use less energy, so consider what you can do to improve the energy efficiency of your home.
Old homes are often poorly insulated and very “leaky”, with permanent vents, gaps around doors, thin single-glazed windows and open fireplaces. There are many things you can do relatively cheaply to make your home air-tight and reduce leakage of heat. Seal gaps around doors and windows using weather strips from hardware shops. Fill gaps around skirting boards, architraves and between floorboards using a tube of gap sealer. Block permanently open windows (common in toilets) with a board cut to fit. Use a masonry filler to close vents in brick walls. Stuff insulation foam or fit vent sealing kits into disused floor and ceiling ducts. Fit a block of foam into fireplace chimneys (do NOT light a fire with foam in place).
You can add batts or loose-fill insulation into ceilings or install a commercial grade wrap. It is possible to retro-fit loose-fill insulation into cavity walls. If your house has under-floor access, you can add insulation batts under your floors.
There are several options for improving the performance of your windows. You could upgrade your windows to double or triple glazing with insulative frames such as uPVC, timber or thermally-broken aluminium, or retro-fit magnetically attached acrylic panels, or even bubble-wrap to imitate the effects of double-glazing. Add fitted blinds or curtains with pelmets. Remember to open the blinds to let the sun in during the day!
Use well-placed trees and shrubbery to provide natural shade and cooling or consider awnings to shade west-facing windows from summer afternoon sun.
Take advantage of the sun’s energy to passively heat your home by maximising north-facing windows.
If you are building a new home or doing substantial extensions or renovations, take the opportunity to build the most sustainable home you can. Find an architect and builder who prioritises sustainability. Build the smallest home you can live in, rather than the biggest that will fit on the block.
Investigate the passive energy potential of the site and home design. Orient living areas so that windows face north for sun in winter, and send the car to the south or west side. Insulate walls and ceilings and include thermal mass in floors or walls to regulate temperatures between day and night. Install thermally broken double-glazed windows and calculate the correct width for eaves to shade windows from summer sun and allow winter sun to enter.
A net-zero-emission house can be achieved by a combination of energy-efficient building design and building techniques and the addition of solar PV power to cover its energy use.
All these measures and more can significantly reduce the amount of heating and cooling your house will need.
Further information about improving the energy efficiency of your home can be found at YourHome, Actsmart and the ACT Government’s Home Energy Assessment Webtool for self-assessment of home energy efficiency, suitable for home owners, renters and landlords.
Whether you have ducted heating from a gas furnace, individual fixed or portable gas heaters, a gas fireplace or even gas-fired hydronic heaters, heating is probably around half your household’s total energy consumption and most of your gas consumption.
Consider your heating needs. Which rooms need heating and how big are they? You can save energy by not heating the whole house. You may choose to heat selected rooms and make use of personal or other heating devices such as electric blankets or small portable heaters. Replacing gas heaters gives you the opportunity to place new ones where you most need them.
In cold weather, we can prevent heat from leaving our homes by improving energy efficiency. Energy efficiency improvements include installing ceiling and wall insulation, stopping draughts around floorboards, doors and windows, and hanging curtains or installing double-glazed windows.
Using the sun’s heat (known as passive solar energy) can also reduce heating (and cooling) needs, and is something that can be effectively factored into the design of renovations and new houses. A really well-designed house may not need extra heating at all.
Heat pumps are the most energy-efficient electric heating option, up to four times more efficient than other types of electric heaters. Commonly known as a reverse-cycle air-conditioner (RCAC) and more traditionally installed in Australia for cooling, heat pumps are “split systems” with an indoor and outdoor unit. The outdoor compressor unit transfers heat from outside air into a refrigerant fluid that gets pumped to a connected indoor evaporator unit that releases the heat into your home. Reversing the cycle cools your home in summer. Modern inverter technology allows the pump speed to vary according to demand, maximising efficiency.
Heat pump technology can be used in different ways. A multi-split system has two to four evaporator units inside, usually in adjacent rooms, connected to a single compressor unit outside. Ducted heat pump systems have a single large condenser unit outside the home connected to a single fan coil evaporator unit located in the roof cavity with ducts that deliver warm or cool air to each room through vents in the ceiling. These generally have lower energy efficiency than single-unit split systems, and efficiency can also be affected by poorly maintained or extensive ducting.
A split-system heat pump is a versatile and efficient way to heat and cool your home.
With electric appliances, you can take advantage of smart technology to run your heating and cooling efficiently.
Heat pumps can also feed hydronic heating systems that heat water and pump it through pipes laid in a concrete floor. While expensive to install and best suited to new buildings and extensions, it offers silent, draught-free heat that rises from the floor. The system can also feed wall-mounted panel heaters and hot water to taps.
The efficiency of heat pumps does vary with climatic conditions, the refrigerant used and the quality of the heat pump construction, so it’s important to check the energy efficiency rating and performance reviews of the models you are considering. The higher the coefficient of performance (CoP), the more efficient the appliance. Different refrigerants have varying effects on Earth’s atmosphere in the event of leakage or end-of-life disposal. The lower the ozone depletion potential (ODP), global warming potential (GWP) and total equivalent warming impact (TEWI), the less harm the refrigerant may cause. Check the manufacturer’s specifications.
If you are replacing a ducted gas central heating system, consider replacing it with multiple split-systems instead of a ducted heat pump system. This is likely to be lower cost to install and run, even if rebates do not apply.
Other factors to consider include how noisy outdoor units will be and where they are placed relative to neighbours’ houses; air filtration capability for families with respiratory conditions; movement sensors; and smart app remote control technology.
Other heating options include far-infrared heating panels, oil-filled column heaters, water-filled hydronic heating, in-floor heating, radiant panel or bar heaters, convection or fan heaters, ceramic element heaters and even ones that look like a fireplace. These systems can be fixed or portable, part of a multi-room system or stand-alone appliances. Efficiency and effectiveness of different technologies and appliances will vary, as will noise, air movement, safety, size and heating capacity, and visual aesthetics. Other features to look for include thermostats, timers and safety cutouts.
Where removing gas appliances or ducts, you may need to patch up walls, floors or ceilings, or fit vent sealing kits to block up decommissioned floor vents.
To ensure you are getting the right product at the best price, get quotes from multiple suppliers. Further information about heating and cooling your home can be found at Energy Rating and YourHome.
Whether you have ducted heating from a gas furnace, individual fixed or portable gas heaters, a gas fireplace or even gas-fired hydronic heaters, heating is probably around half your household’s energy consumption. Switching to modern, energy-efficient electric heating can save you hundreds of dollars every winter.
There are two basic types of water heaters: storage systems that heat water and hold it in an insulated tank until it is needed; and instantaneous flow systems without a storage tank that heat water only when you turn on a tap to use it.
Air-source heat pumps are extremely efficient, drawing heat from the surrounding air, and using just 20–30% of the electricity that a traditional resistive electric system uses. Hot water heat pumps can either have the tank and compressor unit separated or integrated. It is important in Canberra to choose a model that works effectively in a cold climate, so check the specifications for the coefficient of performance and outdoor operating temperature range. Also ask about the global warming potential of the refrigerant – the lower it is, the less harmful the refrigerant may be in the event of leakage. Some outdoor compressor units can be noisy so consider your neighbours when choosing where to place them. While heat pumps can be expensive to buy and install they are very cheap to run, especially if powered by your own rooftop solar panels.
Instantaneous hot water systems use electricity only when needed. The water is heated as you use it, and so they are the only system that does not require you to determine how much water your household requires. Because they have no tank, they are ideal where space is limited, such as in apartments.
With an electric heat pump, you will know that the water you use to clean yourself is also cleaner for the planet.
Electric storage hot water systems use a resistance heating element (like an electric kettle) and are the cheapest option to buy and install. However, they are less efficient at converting electricity to heat, so they cost more to run and cause more greenhouse gas emissions than other options if you are buying electricity from the network, especially outside the ACT. They can be a reasonable choice if you use your own rooftop solar power to heat the water in the middle of the day rather than buying electricity from the network.
Solar thermal hot water systems run or pump water through flat plates or evacuated tubes on the roof, allowing the sun to directly heat the water before being stored in a tank on the roof or the ground. Solar systems can be expensive to buy and install. Your roof will require direct sun, and the system will require an electric element to boost the temperature on cloudy or short winter days. In cold climates, evacuated tubes and closed circuit systems with frost protection are more effective. Ensure a mixing valve is fitted to limit the maximum temperature of the water delivered to your taps.
When choosing the size or capacity of a new system, consider how much hot water your household needs daily.
Water heaters sold in Australia are not required to display an energy rating label, so you may need to dive into the technical specifications to find and compare the data. It’s helpful to obtain multiple quotes for purchase and installation. Hot water heat pumps work very effectively in Canberra, but not all plumbers are familiar with those models.
A hot water supply system must be designed and installed in accordance with Australian Standard AS 3500. The gas supply will need to be capped, and your switchboard and power circuits may need to be upgraded. Tempering valves are required to limit water temperature at bathroom taps to 50°C. Set the thermostat on your water storage system between 60° and 70°C to prevent growth of bacteria.
Try to locate systems as close as possible to where hot water is used and ensure that the system is ventilated and pipes are properly insulated. Split systems provide more flexibility to locate the tank and heating units in different places. If renovating or designing a new home, locate the kitchen, bathroom and laundry close together.
Saving water will also save energy. Take shorter showers and fit low-flow shower heads and tap fittings to save both hot and cold water. Wash your clothes in the coldest water appropriate for the fabric (check the labels). Upgrade dishwashers and washing machines to 6-star energy-efficient versions. Consider fitting an instant under-sink water heater at taps that have a long run from the main hot water service, or investigate return or diversion systems that prevent cold water being wasted while waiting for hot water to arrive at the tap.
In the ACT, switching your hot water from gas to any electric system will instantly reduce greenhouse gas emissions. If your home is outside the ACT you can still save 2–3 tonnes of greenhouse gas emissions each year by switching to a solar hot water system.
To ensure you are getting the right product at the best price, get quotes from multiple suppliers. Hot water systems must be installed by a licenced plumber. You will need a licenced gasfitter to remove a gas system and cap the pipes. Most heat pump installers will be licenced for both. Further information about water heaters can be found at Energy Rating and YourHome. You may be eligible for small-scale technology certificates (STCs) or other rebates – see financial support.
But there are other options to suit your budget and lifestyle.
Induction cooktops use electromagnetic energy to cook your food. Electricity flows through the metal element under the tempered-glass surface, creating a magnetic field. This field interacts with the base of a metal pot, delivering heat quickly and efficiently to the food in the pot. The glass surface remains black and only gets hot if a compatible pot is on the cooking zone. It cools relatively quickly when a hot pot is removed, so, is much safer than gas and ceramic cooktops, and can be wiped down easily as spilled foods don’t bake onto the surface.
Induction cooking is more than twice as energy-efficient as gas because it transfers most of the energy to the cooking pan with minimal loss of heat to surrounding air or surfaces. This also makes induction cooktops fast. It takes as little as 2–3 minutes to boil a litre of water – around a half of the time taken for ceramic and about a third of the time for gas. The elements respond instantly to changes in the temperature settings, giving you superior control. The temperature can be turned up high enough for hot wok cooking or low enough for hours of slow cooking.
An electric coil under the glass surface generates an electromagnetic field that efficiently creates heat directly in the cooking pot without a hot element or flame.
Induction cooktops have no fumes or greenhouse gas emissions or open flame to ignite fats and oils. They have digital controls and safety features such as child locks and cutouts for boiling dry or when no pot is detected. Some have flexible cooking zones enabling use of round or rectangular dishes. They require flat-bottomed cookware with a magnetic iron-rich (ferrous) base. You can test your existing cookware with a magnet – if it sticks to the bottom of the pot, it will probably work.
Price depends on brand, efficiency, power levels, number and flexibility of cooking zones, safety features and warranties.
Modern ceramic cooktops look a lot like induction cooktops when turned off – they both have a sleek, easy-to-clean tempered-glass surface. However, the technology under the glass is very different. Just like the old 20th-century versions, spiral or disc-shaped metal elements use electrical resistance to heat up a ceramic surface. The hot ceramic glows bright red and conducts heat through the pot into your food. They are typically slow to heat up and cool down, and do not use electricity very efficiently.
The advantages of ceramic cooktops compared to gas are that they have no open flames or fumes or greenhouse gas emissions. They are easier to clean than gas stoves and allow the use of a range of different types of flat-bottomed cookware (various metals, glass, ceramics etc). They are generally cheaper to buy than induction cooktops, but are more expensive to run. They may also be cheaper to install because they use a standard 16 amp power circuit that you probably already have in your kitchen. They may have digital touch controls and safety cutout or child lock features.
The glass surface of a ceramic cooktop looks a lot like an induction cooktop when turned off, but when turned on, ceramic cooking elements glow red-hot (left) whereas induction elements remain black throughout cooking and do not get warm unless a compatible pot is placed on the surface (right).
There are many brands and models of induction and ceramic cooktops, ranging widely in price, features and quality. There are independent product reviews online, such as Choice, that can help you select a suitable model.
Standard widths are 30cm, 60cm, 70cm, 80cm and 90cm, with two to five hotplates or cooking zones. You can minimise the cost of installation by choosing the same size as your current cooktop. Measure the size of the hole in your benchtop by carefully raising an edge of your current cooktop or measuring the hole from below via the cupboards underneath, or ask an installer to help. The hole in timber and laminate benchtops can be easily cut bigger, whereas cutting stone or masonry benches may cost more. The alternative is to replace the whole benchtop. Ask installers about the costs of different options when you obtain quotes.
For both induction and ceramic cooktops, you will need an electrician to swap out your old gas stove for the new electric one, and a plumber/gasfitter to cap the gas pipe. The electrician’s fees will depend on the state of your switchboard and wiring and access through the house. Australian Standard AS3000 contains guidelines for circuits and switches. Old porcelain fuses will need to be replaced and your kitchen cooktop circuit may need to be upgraded. The 16 amp circuits that were standard for electric ovens and cooktops should be sufficient for a ceramic cooktop, and may also be sufficient for 30-60cm induction cooktop. A 60cm induction cooker may be combined with an oven on a 32 amp circuit if you already have one. A 90cm induction cooktop may require a separate 32 amp circuit. Ask your installer to check the “assessed maximum demand” rather than the “full-load rating” of the cooktop. You may require additional safety and isolation switches.
In most cases, single-phase power is sufficient to run an induction cooktop. You should only need to upgrade to three-phase power if your home has many high-powered appliances and you are installing an induction cooktop with more than four hotplates or high voltage requirements. Check the specifications.
Gas ovens are far less common than they used to be. If you still have a gas oven, you can replace it with a standard electric oven or a pyrolytic oven. Pyrolytic ovens have a self-cleaning function where the temperature heats to 400–500°C (about twice as hot as a standard oven) and burns spills and residues off the internal surfaces. There are also free-standing electric oven-plus-induction cooktop combinations.
Many people already cook without an installed cooktop, and depending on the sort of meals you make, you may not need a cooktop at all.
A large variety of food can be prepared using portable electric appliances such as rice cookers, slow cookers, microwave ovens, kettles, frypan/skillet/wok, benchtop grill, oven, sandwich press. There are also free-standing or portable induction cookers that could enable you to take advantage of the technology at significantly lower cost. Perhaps you already have everything you need!
Closing your gas account is an administrative action so that you no longer pay the supply charge for gas or receive bills for gas usage/consumption.
Call the gas retailer (the company that bills you for gas) and ask for a “final meter reading” and to “close the account”. Ask them also to “close the stopcock or service shut-off valve” that supplies gas to the meter – this will prevent gas flowing through the meter. Someone from the retail company will physically visit your property to read the meter and close the valve, and a small fee for this service (around $20) will be included in your final bill.
Your meter will still be read periodically, and if you (or the next resident) start using gas again, the account will be re-opened by the retailer.
You may also receive a letter from the retailer a month or so after closing the account asking if you want to open a gas account – you can ignore this letter.
Closing your gas account has no effect on your electricity supply charge because your house is already connected to the electricity network for lights and power.
To ensure that no gas leaks can occur within the house and no gas accidentally flows through the meter, you can have a gasfitter cut and cap the pipe from the meter to your house so that the house is isolated from the network.
Capping the meter is optional and it will incur a fee for the gasfitter’s service visit and materials – ask for a quote.
Prevent the risk of gas leaks into your home by getting a gas fitter to cap the house-side pipe on your gas meter.
If you are really keen to bid farewell to the gas network, for a fee of around $730 (in the ACT) the gas meter can be decommissioned. This involves having the meter removed and digging up the pipe between the meter and the mains pipe in the street.
You do not have to do this. Closing the stopcock and your account is sufficient to stop paying gas bills. Leaving the meter and pipes in place also means you or future occupants of the house could use gas again.
However, leaving the pipes in place retains a safety risk – the pipes are still full of gas which could leak if accidentally ruptured (eg by digging).
There is also a social equity dilemma of leaving pipes in place. You will not be paying any more gas bills, but those pipes still have to be maintained by the gas company for the safety of the network. The cost of that maintenance is borne by all the remaining customers. As more customers leave the network, that cost will increasingly be borne by renters, apartment residents and low-income households that can’t (or can’t afford to) easily make the switch. There will be ongoing discussion about whose responsibility those costs will be, but in the short term, if you can afford to remove the pipes and meter, we recommend doing it for safety and to remove the cost burden on other customers.
You can switch from gas to an all-electric household quite quickly or over a longer period depending on your available funds and other activities such as planned renovations or building a new home.
The key point is that you need a plan!
This will minimise inconvenience, reduce costs, and allow for an orderly replacement based on the condition and expected life of existing appliances, the availability of good prices at sales, and so on.
Generally, it makes sense to replace the appliance that uses the most gas first because this has the highest annual running cost. For most households, this will be heating. The appliance that uses the least gas should be replaced last. For most households, this will be your cooktop.
You may choose to replace appliances in a different sequence, considering the age and condition of your appliances, the cost of the replacement, or other factors.
Here is an example of a priority list:
Assess your needs. Here are some basic questions to get you started.
Generally, the better quality, more efficient product you buy, the greater its value for money over the longer term. Cheap options might seem attractive when considering upfront purchase costs, but if they are less efficient, they will cost more to run.
For instance, a cheap-to-buy, free-standing electric bar heater might blast some toasty heat into your living room, but a wall-mounted reverse-cycle split-system air-conditioner (heat pump) may keep your room more comfortably heated while using less electricity, be safer, free-up floor space and cool your room in summer.
Choice publishes reviews and comparisons of household appliances so it is worth considering becoming a member to access their articles or check your local public library.
Get familiar with energy rating labels. The more stars on the sticker, the more efficient the appliance. The sticker also tells you how much electricity the appliance uses per year (under standard testing conditions): the lower the energy consumption number, the cheaper the appliance is to run. Use these labels and the Energy Rating Calculator to compare models and estimate your running costs.
Join the My Efficient Electric Home Facebook group to tap into a growing community of people who are switching off gas and going all-electric in their homes. There is a wealth of independent knowledge and no such thing as a stupid question!
Visit appliance and energy retailers, read reviews and ask questions. Shop around for the best deals. Obtain quotes from multiple suppliers about installation costs. Don’t be lured by new gas appliances!
The ACT Government offers incentives and programs for energy upgrades – find out more.
Your timeline is likely to be influenced by your budget. If you have some money saved up or access to a low-interest loan or are eligible for rebates or subsidies, you could get started straight away. The large savings in the first few years from switching the first appliance (probably heating) from gas to electric will help you to fund the second appliance (probably water heating), and so on.
Cooking does not use much gas, but replacing your last appliance means you can also close your gas account, saving you at least $320 per year in gas supply charges. The last gas appliance is usually easily funded by this saving in gas supply charges. For example, if you buy and install an induction cooktop for $1280 and close your gas account, you will recoup the cost of the cooktop after four years of no longer paying gas supply charges.
The more you spend on new appliances, the longer the payback period will be, but the better the quality of the appliance, the more energy-efficient and cheaper it will be to run over the long term.
Here is an example of a simple plan over five years:
Use the Make the Switch calculator to explore the costs, savings and payback periods of some appliance options.
The Australian Government, State and Territory governments, local councils, energy and appliance retailers and installers, and community groups offer a variety of schemes and programs to help households improve energy efficiency and affordability, from tips about saving energy to loans and rebates to upgrade appliances. Some relevant financial schemes are listed below. For the most up-to-date information, visit your local government website.
Suppliers will usually incorporate these schemes into their quotes, applying them on your behalf – ask for an itemised quote so you can see the details. Always obtain quotes from multiple suppliers.
See also the resources section below for more information on home energy efficiency and appliances. Other State information may be added in the future, or please get in touch if links are out of date.
The Australian Government Energy.gov.au website lists all energy-related rebates available in different states and territories. Select your state from the Location list, and Households from the Audience list to see all rebates, tools and supports.
The following are most relevant to households switching from gas. See energy.gov.au/rebates for other schemes for businesses.
Energy Efficiency Improvement Scheme (EEIS)
The ACT Government’s Everyday Climate Choices team (formerly Actsmart) can advise you on a range of other energy-related concessions, practical advice and services.
ActewAGL “lends a helping hand” and provides support and advice including concessions on energy bills.
The ACT Suburban Land Agency also offers a range of rebates, loans and other schemes for new home builders, including landscaping and home energy rebate programs for new suburbs.
Like the ACT, the Victorian Government is now actively phasing out gas in buildings. As of 1 January 2024, new homes will be prohibited from connecting to gas. Find out more in Victoria’s ‘Gas substitution roadmap‘
The Victorian Government and local councils offer assistance to help make the switch to energy-efficient electric appliances. The list here includes only a few examples of Local Government Areas across Victoria. Visit your local Council’s website for additional information about energy saving schemes for which you as a home/business owner or tenant may be eligible.
Energy Rating labels, running costs calculator, energy advice and apps, information about a range of household appliances.
Energy.gov.au information for households about energy and appliance choices, financial assistance and your rights as an energy customer.
Residential Efficiency Scorecard brings an accredited assessor to rate your home’s energy use and provide tailored recommendations.
Energy Made Easy to compare energy retail plans.
Yourhome, an Australian Government guide to environmentally sustainable homes.
Choice product reviews.
Actsmart home energy advice.
Green It Yourself provides helpful videos on easy DIY home energy projects.
Better Renting Home Truths energy efficiency guide for renters.
Home Energy Assessment Webtool for self-assessment of home energy efficiency, producing a tailored report for improvements, suitable for home owners, renters and landlords.
Australian Energy Foundation for independent household energy advice including solar power, energy efficiency, heating, hot water, lighting, and finding quotes and installers.
My Efficient Electric Home Facebook group of experts and homeowners dedicated to improving the energy performance of Australian homes.
Renew website and magazine, providing expert, independent advice on sustainable solutions for the home to households, government and industry.
Efficiency Matrix provides helpful videos about insulation, air-tightness and more.
Green electricity guide and summary article comparing the environmental credentials of electricity providers (Note that the analysis was last conducted in 2018).
GreenPower scheme and review for electricity customers to purchase renewable energy.
SunSPoT information and analysis to help energy consumers and PV businesses make better decisions about investment in solar PV.
Carbon Counter can help identify and measure simple ways to reduce your carbon footprint.
Design For Place free home designs for passive energy efficiency,
Australian Energy Market Commission Electric appliance efficiency factsheet – understand how electric appliances impact your electricity bills.
Want to do more for your home, community and planet? Check out the UN’s Lazy person’s guide to saving the world.
When you obtain quotes for installing your new appliances, ask what the installer does with the old ones. The best option is for old appliances to be taken to a scrap metal recycler, not the tip. Old heat pumps (air conditioners) contain refrigerant which needs to be safely recovered in accordance with Australian standards by a licensed air conditioning technician. Some major retailers offer “take-back” services including removal of polystyrene packaging.
The ACT Government Recyclopaedia website can help you find metal recyclers. You should not place old appliances into any of your rubbish or recycling bins.
“I wouldn’t install gas when I can use renewable energy – the economics are just a bonus.” Read moreThe Jago family Tuggeranong
"Having turned off our gas means we have a huge saving of energy costs and service costs, and helped mother nature." Read moreMaggie, Surinder & Kiran North Canberra
"In our new home, we are now saving a lot of money in running costs." Read moreThe Prowse family Weston Creek
"I didn’t like the wastage of heating a whole house when I only occupy one room at a time." Read moreJohn West Belconnen
“Our new induction cooker heats up as fast (or faster) than gas, and is wayyyy easier to clean!” Read moreDavid and Nicole North Canberra
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